Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Plaine des Sables. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Plaine des Sables. Sort by date Show all posts

Sunday, 17 May 2020

Hiking Morne Langevin



For the first Saturday after lockdown ended in Reunion my husband and I decided to head up to the mountains, and we soon found ourselves at Pas de Sable near the volcano, starting a hike to Morne Langevin.

sign at the start of the hike showing the altitude: 2350m

Morne Langevin is a hike I hadn't done in about 25 years so it was interesting to do once again. However this time we only went to the viewpoint and back, without doing the longer loop walk. The weather was quite cold (12-13°C) as befits the altitude and time of year, but as it was sunny and not windy, and we soon warmed up when we hiked.

3D map of the terrain showing the hike in yellow (source)

looking across Plaine des Sables

As we hiked along the path we started to see the lunar landscape of Plaine des Sables, and as we got further  we could see the summit of Piton de La Fournaise to our left.

summit of Piton de la Fournaise in the middle-right background 

Once we started hiking we realised the ground was covered by thousands of Pele's hairs from the last eruption in March 2020. As these strands are very fine and difficult to photograph I filmed one blowing in the breeze.


much of the path looked like this

The type of vegetation at this altitude is moorland with few plants growing, however those that do grow are generally endemic. They've adapted to the harsh climate, and there can be large temperature variations, strong wind, heavy rain, and periods of drought. Some plants have small leaves to avoid being withered by the sun while others, like the Hubertia tomentosa, have little hairs to capture any moisture in the air.


In the end it took us just over 2 hours to hike the round-trip distance of 7.3 km.

almost there!

end of the hike

As we'd started hiking mid-afternoon and the sun sets at about 5:45pm at this time of year, we had a fantastic view of the sun setting over the centre of the island as we drove back down.

mist over craters at dusk

sunset, Grand Benare to the left, Piton des Neiges to the right

sunset, Grand Benare to the left, Piton des Neiges to the right

For more information about the hike (in French) see Du Pas des Sables au Morne Langevin.

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Friday, 30 November 2007

Around the volcano

Unable to climb to the summit of the Piton de la Fournaise volcano as it was closed off after an eruption, we made the most of the surrounding area - there's still plenty to see.

Piton de la Fournaise

On the road leading to the Pas de Bellecombe is a viewpoint called the Nez de Boeuf (literally the Ox's Nose), which has a great view over the Riviere des Remparts valley.

view from the Nez de Boeuf (2136 m)

On a clear day when you look back towards the centre of the island you can see the Piton des Neiges - the island's highest point.


Next stop is the Commerson crater at 2310m, about 235 metres deep and 200 metres in diametre. 


It was formed 2000 years ago during an explosion.


Reunion holds many world records for precipitation, and Commerson crater in particular has seen some very heavy rainfall:


Further on is the Plaine des Sables, a flat plain which the road crosses in a straight line.

The Plaine des Sables is at 2260m

Plaine des Sables

Once we arrived at the Pas de Bellecombe we could only hike down into the Enclos caldera as far as the Chapelle de Rosemont as any further ahead was shut off due to a recent volcanic eruption.

Peak of La Fournaise from Pas de Bellecombe

Chapelle de Rosemont


You'll find my more detailed account of a hike to the summit here.
For other posts about the volcano follow this link.
See here for a post about staying in the gîte in the riverbed of the Riviere des Remparts.


Saturday, 16 December 2017

How busy are Reunion's hiking paths?

How busy are Reunion's hiking paths and which are the most popular paths to hike? Between January and September 2017, about 23 hiking paths were equipped with "eco-counters" to find out the number of hikers who frequented them. Here, in descending order, are the four most popular paths and the number of "passings" during the nine-month period (bear in mind that a passing may be the same person walking there and back):
  1. Col des Boeufs (Mafate): 118,481 
  2. Volcano caldera: 110,839
  3. Sentier de la Providence (Saint-Denis): 90,618
  4. Grand Bassin: 79,537
In total 921,058 passings were recorded for all paths during the study period. The twenty-three paths  monitored were as follows: La Providence, Roche Ecrite, Deux Bras, Maïdo, Col des Bœufs, Hell-Bourg-Bélouve, Trou de Fer, Col du Taïbit, Le Bloc Cilaos (Piton des Neiges), Grand Bassin, Mare à Boue, Volcano caldera, Sentier des Citernes (Sainte-Rose), Rampes de la Montagne, Colorado, Pic Adam, Ilet Alcide, Sentier Augustave, Sentier Scout and Cascade Bras Rouge, Ilet à Guillaume-Fenêtre, Sentier des 3 sources (Saint-Joseph). Note that 'Sentier des Citernes' was the least used path, with only a few hundred hikers.

map showing the most popular paths and roads (source)

ONF, the French Forestry Commission, also manages a number of forest roads, and out of the fifteen equipped with a counter the three most used were:
    1. Etang Salé: 387,067
    2. Volcano (at Piton Sec): 242,749
    3. Maïdo: 240,512
In total 2,081,092 passings were recorded for all forest roads during the study period. The fifteen counters were on the following forest roads: Mamode Camp, Maïdo-Petite France, Col des Bœufs in Salazie, Grand Etang, Petite Plaine-Bébour, Tévelave, the volcano at Piton Sec, Étang-Salé forest, Le Maïdo-Tamarin road junction, Les Makes, Volcano-Plaine des sables, Etang salé forest park road at golf course entrance, Anse des Cascades, Bélouve forest road, Piton Sec forest road.

By the way it's difficult to count the total number of paths in Reunion as many branch off from one another. ONF manages about 1,000km of paths on the island but estimates there are a total of 2,500km! About 75% of all hikers are locals (of course this information can't be collected for eco-counters, but presumably comes from visitor surveys). And while normal walking speed is ≈4km/hour, on these paths you should count ≈300 metres/hr going uphill and  ≈400 metres/hr going downhill.

The source for these statistics can be found here and on pages 28-29 here.


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  • Aurère & the Sentier Augustave
  • Cayenne hikeHiking from Maïdo to Ilet Alcide
  • Grand Étang
  • Hellbourg to Belouve hike
  • Hike from Le Belier to Hell-Bourg
  • Hike Nez de Boeuf to Roche Plate (Rivière des Remparts)
  • Hike from Le Belier to Hell-Bourg
  • Hiking from Dos d'Ane to Plaine d'Affouches
  • Hiking Grande Chaloupe to La Redoute
  • Hiking in the shadow of the volcano
  • Hiking Piton des Neiges from Cilaos
  • Hiking the 3 cirques
  • Hiking the Canalisation des Orangers
  • Hiking to and from Ilet à Cordes
  • Maïdo & Petite France
  • Morne de St François & Le Brulé 
  • Pic Adam
  • Plaine des Palmistes to Plaines des Cafres via Piton Textor
  • Trekking the volcano


  • Friday, 10 February 2012

    Trekking the volcano



    The Piton de la Fournaise volcano is one of Reunion Island's most emblematic symbols, and if you're only a visitor to the island, it's definitely a 'must-do' on your list of things to see. It's one of the world's most active volcanoes, and also one of those that emits the most lava.

    Piton de la Fournaise from Pas de Bellecombe

    Personally, due to our stay in South Korea for three years, I hadn't been back since 2007.

    the volcano is in the south-east of the island

    Driving up to the gîte, where we would spend the night at 2230m altitude, we 'lost' about 20°C in an hour and a half, going from 30°C on the coast to 11°C at the gîte itself!

    Gîte du volcan at sunset

    As we were driving there in late afternoon/early evening we had the chance to take some lovely photos of the sunset:





    To get to the gîte and the Pas de Bellecombe you have to cross what is known as the Plaine des Sables, a vast, empty plain crossed by a dirt track.


    road crossing the Plaine des Sables

    At the gîte a new restaurant & reception area has been built since we were last there, and it is now a comfortable and well-lit building where you can have meals or beverages (remember to book an evening meal 48 hours ahead).

    gîte in full daylight (red roofs to the left are accommodation)

    our accommodation was in the Gite des Anciens Porteurs



    the altitude means there are temperate climate trees like this sycamore

    From the gîte you can also do other hikes, to or across the Fond de la Rivière de l'Est, (which we did one year down to Ste Rose after having hiked up from St Philippe the previous day - that was a tough one!).

    view over the Fond de la Rivière de l'Est from the gîte



    From the gîte it's a short drive or walk to either the Pas de Bellecombe (better to drive), or the starting point from which you can hike down into the volcano caldera (a 600m walk from the gîte), which are a few hundred metres distant from each other.

    Panoramic view from the Pas de Bellecombe

    At the Pas de Bellecombe (2311m) you can find a car-park and viewpoint with orientation tables (see photos below), as well as chemical toilets and a snack bar.

    New York is 17000 km away

    Sydney is 9680 km to the east

    Tokyo is 10800 km to the north-east

    The Pas de Bellecombe is on the edge of a 8km-wide caldera called Enclos Fouqué.

    Piton de Partage (looking left (north
    north east) from Pas de Bellecombe)

    Before descending into the caldera (if you're hiking) there are warning signs in French, English and German. In the case of an eruption - or imminent eruption - access to the caldera is closed by a metal gate.


    One of the first things a visitor notices in the caldera is Formica Leo, an 18th century crater that takes its name from antlions who construct similarly-shaped mounds. 

    View of Formica Leo before descending into the Enclos.

    Formica Leo


    The descent into the caldera looks something like this:


    The caldera is so deep (400m), that the Eiffel Tower (324m) could fit into it.

    When you're hiking in the caldera the ground is more or mess flat, but fairly uneven as it's made up of old lava flows.


    There are lots of crevasses and small tunnels and caves.




    The sign below shows an example of 'Pahoehoe' lava, which is basaltic lava that has a smooth, hummocky, or ropy surface. As La Fournaise is a shield volcano that experiences what is called Hawaiian-type eruptions, some of the descriptive terms come from Hawaiian. 


    The path is easy to follow as there are white markings. This is extremely useful if the conditions are foggy or misty - the weather here can change EXTREMELY quickly. 


    After Formica Leo the next main natural formation you notice is the Chapelle de Rosemont, whose shape is reminiscent of a chapel.

     The chapelle is at 2245m altitude

    It's been cleaned up since last time I was there.

    "The chapel is made for praying, not for peeing"

    Piton de Partage from Chapelle de Rosemont

    This sign indicates a'a lava, in a flow dating from 1955.


    After the chapelle the path starts to climb up to the viewpoint over the Dolomieu crater.

    darker-coloured lava is more recent

    I always think lava with this shape looks like elephant dung!


    Craters from previous eruptions can be seen along the way.


    As you can see from the other photos, vegetation is almost non-existent.

    one of the rare plants to be found in the caldera

    Successive lava flows have left incredible shapes.



    Possible eruptions are known about well in advance thanks to the Observatory, which keeps a close eye on the volcano's seismic activity.

    arriving at the viewpoint

    The volcano's highest point is at 2632m, although the view point itself is slightly lower.

    Dolomieu crater

    The floor of the Dolomieu crater suddenly subsided on April 6th 2007, throwing some 60 million cubic metres of rock into the bowels of the volcano. Today the crater is about 280 metres deep, and 700 to 1000 metres wide, having risen roughly 70 metres between September 2008 and January 2009. 

    cloud of smoke over la Fournaise as Dolomieu crater subsided, 2007

    We had not been back to the Dolomieu since this had all happened.

    looking right at the viewpoint

    A small rockfall happened while we were there:



    Afterwards it was just a case of turning round and heading back the way we came!
    Count about 5 hours for the round trip from the Pas de Bellecombe.


    Some useful web links if you're visiting the volcano:
    • For more of my posts about La Fournaise volcano please follow this link.
    • You can read here about our visit to the slopes of Mount Merapi in Indonesia, another very active volcano.