Showing posts with label UNESCO. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UNESCO. Show all posts

Sunday, 29 May 2022

Dubrovnik & Montenegro

Another professional conference, this time in Montenegro, was the chance to make the most of being in Europe and fly from Portugal to Dubrovnik, the nearest airport to the conference location. This conference and the trip to Dubrovnik had actually all been planned (and paid for!) in 2020 when the pandemic hit. Everything eventually got refunded, but I was glad to finally make the trip, albeit two years later than planned. I'd been to northern Croatia (Zagreb and Rab) in 1991 when it was still part of Yugoslavia, but I'd never been to the southern part of the country.


Dubrovnik really is an extraordinary city to visit, and was definitely the highlight of a five-week five-country trip that also encompassed Portugal and Montenegro. We made the choice - a no-brainer in my opinion - to stay in the walled city itself so we could soak up as much of the atmosphere as possible.

our view at breakfast every morning 

On arrival we wandered around the compact city to get our bearings, before heading to one of the two bars clinging to the outer walls for a sunset drink. 

typical alleyway, our accommodation was down a similar alley

cliff-side bar, Dubrovnik

looking along the city's main street, Placa

The next morning we walked along the city's defining feature, its city walls. We took plenty of time, stopping to admire the view and take plenty of photos, so it took us about two hours to walk the 2 kilometres. You have to walk them in an anti-clockwise direction. 

view of Dubrovnik from the city walls


view of Dubrovnik port from the city walls

view looking west from the city walls

view south from the city walls

view looking north-west from the city walls


After what we felt was a well-earned lunch, we visited the Rector's Palace cultural history museum. This Gothic-Renaissance palace was built in the late 15th century for the elected Rector who governed Dubrovnik. For the one month that he governed, the Rector was unable to leave the building without the Senate's permission. The museum also houses a moving exhibition about Dubrovnik under siege in 1991-1992 (when you walk around the city, several walls have a map pinpointing damage from bombardments during the siege).
Former bell jacks (nicknamed Maro and Baro) made of bronze, and
cast around 1478. They struck the time for about 4 centuries

18th-century portrait, Rector's Palace

Column capital showing Asclepius (Greek god of medicine)
with Dubrovnik Cathedral dome in the background

To end the day, we then took the cable car up to Srđ to get a fantastic view of the city from a steep elevation of about 400 metres.

looking down onto Dubrovnik old city from Srđ
looking north from Srđ

On our final full day, we chose to take a boat trip to visit three of the 14 Elafiti islands that lie just off the north-west coast of Dubrovnik. The three we visited are the only islands that are permanently inhabited.

Kolocep is the nearest island to Dubrovnik and has a population of 163

with an area of 16 sq. km, Sipan is the largest Elafiti island

Lopud is car-free

Sign at our guest house. We didn't have time to visit Lokrum,
go the beach or go sea kayaking but we did most of the rest!
 
After three days in Dubrovnik, we headed south along the coast to Herceg Novi in Montenegro.

Dubrovnik seen when heading to Montenegro

We stayed in the hotel where my conference was taking place, located at Kumbor on the Bay of Kotor.

looking north from the hotel

sunset, Bay of Kotor

It was rather surprising to open your room curtains and realise a massive cruise ship was silently sailing past. They arrived in the morning and left at day's end.

cruise ship, Bay of Kotor

The next day we went on a boat trip to one of Montenegro's most famous sites, Perast and Our Lady of the Rock.

on our way to Perast ...

... being chased by a cruise ship

typical Montenegrin scenery 

St George's Island, which houses a monastery and can't be visited

Our Lady of the Rock is actually an artificial islet created by locals adding rocks after finding an icon of the Madonna on the original rock in the sea in 1452. It houses a church built in 1630 which has a small museum whose most famous exhibit is a tapestry of the Madonna partly made embroidered the hair of its maker (we weren't allowed to photograph it).

Our Lady of the Rock

the church on Our Lady of the Rock

close-up of the church on Our Lady of the Rock

inside our Lady of the Rock church 

inside our Lady of the Rock church 

Just across the water lies the attractive small town of Perast.

Perast

Perast from the water

I'll leave you with this (great) video from the conference, which has some great drone footage of the Bay of Kotor, and starts with a shot of Our Lady of the Rocks (you can see St George's Island just behind, and Perast to the left).

 

After four lovely days in Montenegro, it was time to head to Brighton for the third and final conference of my 2022 European tour!

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Thursday, 26 July 2018

Bergen & the fjords

On leaving Oslo we travelled to Bergen by train. We're no strangers to rail trips, having taken the Trans-SiberianTrans-Mongolian and the world's highest railway as well as travelling around Japan by train. This was a comparatively short journey of 'only' 496 kilometres, but the Bergensbanen is considered to be one of Europe's best train journeys.

view from the Oslo to Bergen train

Built between 1875 and 1909 the Bergen Line climbs to 1200m and takes six and a half hours, during which it goes through 182 tunnels!

view from the Oslo to Bergen train

The highest station, Finse, is at 1222m and the line climbs up to 1237m when it crosses the desolate Hardangervidda plateau, making it the highest mainline railway line in Northern Europe.

view from the Oslo to Bergen train

view from the Oslo to Bergen train

our Oslo to Bergen train, on arrival in Bergen station 

Located on the west coast of Norway, Bergen is the same latitude as Oslo (≈60°N) but we found it quite a bit cooler! Norway's second-largest city is well-known for its wooden gabled buildings at Bryggen   waterfront, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979 (Bryggen means 'the dock').

Bergen's centrepiece: Bryggen waterfront

Bryggen currently comprises 58 buildings which date from the early 18th century, although the building pattern is 12th century.

close-up of one of the wharf buildings

We also visited Bergenhus fortress which contains a number of buildings including Rosenkrantz Tower and Haakon's Hall - the latter is the largest secular medieval building in Norway.

Håkonshallen

street in the Stølen neighbourhood of Bergen

On our second morning we visited Old Bergen open-air museum which lets you experience the atmosphere from a time when Bergen was Europe’s biggest wooden city.

historical reenactment at Gamle Bergen museum

We then hiked up Stoltzekleiven, a steep (315 metres elevation) paved trail with 801 steps that leads up to Sandviksfjellet, one of Bergen's seven 'mountains'; the city has been compared to Rome for this reason. Coming from Reunion, I call them hills as the highest, Ulriken, is only 643 metres above sea level!

part of the Stoltzekleiven path

from the top we had great views over Bergen's fjords 

wagtail

 To get back down we took the funicular from Fløyen.

Fløibanen funicular

We hired a car for the next two days (eyewateringly expensive to do in Norway!), and on the first day headed inland to the Western fjords.


We parked our car at Gudvangen, took a bus to Flåm, and from there went on a two-hour cruise through Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord. The latter is a beautiful 17km-long UNESCO World Heritage site fjord, surrounded by towering cliffs 1200m high.

Nærøyfjord

in Aurlandsfjord

in Nærøyfjord

Nærøyfjord

village of Bakka: four farms and ten inhabitants

When we returned to our car we drove along the road beside the fjord back to Bakka and were stopped by a (Shetland?) pony who wouldn't budge from the middle of the road!

traffic jam near Bakka!

Highland cow near Bakka

On our way back we stopped at Stalheim Hotel which is located high above the Nærøydalen valley and has fantastic views.

at Stalheim

view from Stalheim

view looking down Nærøydalen valley from Stalheim

Sivlefossen waterfall

For our final day we explored the Hardangerfjord area: classic Norwegian fjord country. At 179 km long the fjord itself is the fourth longest in the world, and stretches from the sea south of Bergen to the mountainous interior of Norway along the Hardangervidda plateau.

waterfall in the Hardangerfjord area

Steinsdalsfossen waterfall is one of the most visited tourist sites in Norway. The waterfall is only 50 or so metres high, but you can walk behind it while staying dry.

view from behind Steinsdalsfossen

view looking across Steinsdalsfossen

While driving around this area we had several views of the Folgefonna ice field - the third largest in Norway, with three glaciers covering 168 km2 and ice up to 400 m thick in places. 

a view of Folgefonna


By the way, all the bus stops we saw in the Norwegian countryside had grass-covered roofs, sometimes even bin shelters had grass roofs too!

countryside bus stop


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