Showing posts with label Réunion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Réunion. Show all posts

Sunday, 3 January 2021

Domaine de la Roseraye, Ste-Rose

Domaine de la Roseraye is a small former sugar factory in Sainte-Rose, on Reunion's south-east coast. We were some of the first people to visit it as part of a new series of guided tours organised by Les Aventuriers de l'Est in partnership with the site's owners, the Adam De Villiers family.


The site has belonged the Adam De Villiers family since the turn of the last century, but the former sugar factory ruins left there predate them and are probably mid-nineteenth century. 


The remains include an (incomplete) boiler, a broken flywheel, and a small sugar cane mill. They are interesting because Domaine de la Roseraye is one of the few, if not the only, factory sites on Reunion that has been left virtually as it was. Its small size is typical of properties of the time, and it's a piece in the jigsaw puzzle of the island's sugar cane industry development.


Incidentally until the late 19th century the only way to reach Ste-Rose from the north and east was by sea. The bridge over the Rivière de l'Est - the world's longest at the time - was only built in 1894.





The family had some archaeological work carried out between 2015 and 2018 but frustratingly French regulations mean that if there is no active archaeological research being carried out the site has to be recovered in order to preserve what's underneath. Prior to 2015 it was a guest house, with rooms in the converted stables. The actual house is quite unprepossessing and was apparently never lived in full-time. Located in such a backwater it didn't need the bling-bling of houses such as those on St-Denis' Rue de Paris for example.

house at Domaine de la Roseraye

verandah of the house at Domaine de la Roseraye

Whoever planted the garden must have loved Heliconias, as I've rarely seen so many different varieties in one place!




Heliconia rostrata




Heliconia chartacea

There were also plenty of other plants and trees in the garden. As Ste-Rose is located on Reunion's windward coast it gets lots of rain, which means gardens in the area are extremely lush.

starfruit flowers

Lipstick palm (Cyrtostachys renda)





Incidentally a TV journalist was there at the same time as us, and her news segment can be seen here:

Domaine de la Roseraye guided visits take place on the 1st Sunday of every month and you should contact Les Aventuriers de l'Est at aventuriersdelest@gmail.fr or 0692 34 45 21 to book. Visits for 15 or more people can be organised on other dates.

See also:

Sunday, 29 November 2020

Rivière du Mât

Although I worked for 9 years at Bourbon Plastiques, I never hiked this path up alongside the Rivière du Mât river although I'd heard about. It's now been 12 years since I left BP to move to Seoul for three years, so when an outing to Rivière du Mât was suggested by a group of friends I was keen to participate.

Bourbon Plastiques roofs are just visible behind the vegetation

It's not a very difficult hike, and the path is flat most of the time. We only went as far as Bassin des Aigrettes, which should not be confused with its homonym at Saint-Gilles, although they do look similar.







At one point on the path a sign indicates Bassin De La Mer, which is a bit further on and slightly steeper to get to. Again this should not be confused with its near-homonym Bassin La Mer at Saint-Benoit.

sign to Bassin De La Mer

Bassin des Aigrettes, Rivière du Mât

The way back was by the same path, and we stopped off to cool our feet in the river.

Rivière du Mât, looking east towards the sea

The area near the carpark where the hike starts and finishes has been landscaped to a certain extent, and there are some attractive plants as well as some old remnants of the former sugar factory that Bourbon Plastiques stands on the site of.



jackfruit growing

Heliconia

ornamental banana

If you're interested in this hike, information in French can be found at La boucle des Bassins de la Mer et des Aigrettes depuis la Rivière du Mât.


See also:


Sunday, 9 August 2020

Hiking to Grand Place

It had been a long time since I actually made an overnight trip to Mafate; my last two trips to the cirque were one-day trips to La Nouvelle with visitors, so I probably hadn't slept overnight in Mafate since 2014! But having an enforced staycation in Reunion due to the COVID pandemic was the occasion to hike there with a group of friends. We started our expedition by taking a 4x4 taxi from Riviere des Galets to Deux Bras.

view further into Mafate from Deux Bras

From Deux Bras we started a leisurely hike of ≈7 km and ≈500 metres of positive elevation up to our night's accommodation at Grand Place les Hauts, where we stayed at Gite Pavillon. On the way there we crossed Bras D'Oussy river on a high bridge (more about Bras D'Oussy later).

view from the Bras D'Oussy bridge
looking south-east towards the Gros Morne

view from Bras D'Oussy bridge looking south-west towards Le Maido
(note the red roofs of Cayenne barely visible at the bottom left)

cross by the side of the path on the way to Cayenne

On the way we stopped just outside of the hamlet of Cayenne for lunch.

gaily decorated building at our lunch stop near Cayenne

lots of purple ginger bush was growing

After lunch we passed by Grand Place primary school. It's one of eight schools in Mafate (the others are in La Nouvelle, Orangers, Roche Plate, Marla, Aurère, îlet à Malheur, and îlet à Bourse). For secondary school education pupils from Mafate have to board on the coast.

Grand Place school

Grand Place is overlooked by the distinctive pyramid-shaped Piton des Calumets which is 1616 metres high.

nearly there; Piton des Calumets in the background

We arrived at the gîte quite early and were able to rest and enjoy the view. Pavillon is quite practical because it has its own small grocery shop and there's even fresh bread - a rarety in Mafate.

gîte Le Pavillon with Piton des Calumets benind 

looking north-west from behind the gîte

looking north from behind the gîte

We should have been spending two nights in the same gîte, but there had been a mix-up and so the next morning we moved to another gîte about 20 minutes/1 km away called Chez Marcel et Dominique Bilin.

leaving gîte Le Pavillon
(buildings just visible in the centre of the photo)

After dropping most of our stuff off, we then headed off to Roche Ancrée for a few hours. Located between Grand Place and Roche Plate, Roche Ancrée is a nice bathing spot, technically part of the Rivière des Galets river. We headed down a very steep path to get there.

view on the way to Roche Ancrée

view halfway down the path to Roche Ancrée

the bathing spot from above

Some of us had a swim in the icy water before lunch and then dried off in the sun. To make a round trip of it we hiked through Cayenne to get back to Gîte Bilin.

having a dip at Roche Ancrée

looking north on the way from Roche Ancrée to Cayenne,
the hamlet is just visible to the right

arriving at Cayenne

(ficus?) tree roots by the pathside on the way to Cayenne

looking back (south) just before arriving at Cayenne

Cayenne church 

a cross at Cayenne 

After our second and final night in Mafate we headed slowly down to Deux Bras, where we had to be by 4pm to get the taxi back to the town of Rivière des Galets. On the way back we stopped at Gîte Bougainvilliers where there's a grocery, a postbox, and a statue of the famous postman of Mafate.

postbox at Gîte Bougainvilliers

Ivrin Pausé was one of the postmen of Mafate from 1951 until 1991. He would leave the post office in La Possession every Monday morning and spend the next fours days hiking 120km on the trails to deliver letters. It's been calculated that during his 40 years of service he hiked a total of 253 000 kilomètres, i.e.  6 times the circumference of the earth. Another well-known postman in Mafate was Angelo Thiburce who was awarded the Order of Merit by Jacques Chirac, but famously said he would have preferred that the government pay him a pair of shoes!

statute of Ivrin Pausé, former postman of Mafate

We then bypassed Cayenne (as we'd been there the day before) and crossed the Passerelle des Lataniers footbridge, before heading down to the level of Rivière des Galets.

crossing Passerelle des Lataniers footbridge

Once there it was time for a picnic lunch and a swim at Bras d'Oussy before heading back to Deux Bras for the 4x4 ride back to "civilisation". From our swimming spot we could see the bridge we'd crossed over the first day.