Sunday, 29 May 2022

Dubrovnik & Montenegro

Another professional conference, this time in Montenegro, was the chance to make the most of being in Europe and fly from Portugal to Dubrovnik, the nearest airport to the conference location. This conference and the trip to Dubrovnik had actually all been planned (and paid for!) in 2020 when the pandemic hit. Everything eventually got refunded, but I was glad to finally make the trip, albeit two years later than planned. I'd been to northern Croatia (Zagreb and Rab) in 1991 when it was still part of Yugoslavia, but I'd never been to the southern part of the country.


Dubrovnik really is an extraordinary city to visit, and was definitely the highlight of a five-week five-country trip that also encompassed Portugal and Montenegro. We made the choice - a no-brainer in my opinion - to stay in the walled city itself so we could soak up as much of the atmosphere as possible.

our view at breakfast every morning 

On arrival we wandered around the compact city to get our bearings, before heading to one of the two bars clinging to the outer walls for a sunset drink. 

typical alleyway, our accommodation was down a similar alley

cliff-side bar, Dubrovnik

looking along the city's main street, Placa

The next morning we walked along the city's defining feature, its city walls. We took plenty of time, stopping to admire the view and take plenty of photos, so it took us about two hours to walk the 2 kilometres. You have to walk them in an anti-clockwise direction. 

view of Dubrovnik from the city walls


view of Dubrovnik port from the city walls

view looking west from the city walls

view south from the city walls

view looking north-west from the city walls


After what we felt was a well-earned lunch, we visited the Rector's Palace cultural history museum. This Gothic-Renaissance palace was built in the late 15th century for the elected Rector who governed Dubrovnik. For the one month that he governed, the Rector was unable to leave the building without the Senate's permission. The museum also houses a moving exhibition about Dubrovnik under siege in 1991-1992 (when you walk around the city, several walls have a map pinpointing damage from bombardments during the siege).
Former bell jacks (nicknamed Maro and Baro) made of bronze, and
cast around 1478. They struck the time for about 4 centuries

18th-century portrait, Rector's Palace

Column capital showing Asclepius (Greek god of medicine)
with Dubrovnik Cathedral dome in the background

To end the day, we then took the cable car up to Srđ to get a fantastic view of the city from a steep elevation of about 400 metres.

looking down onto Dubrovnik old city from Srđ
looking north from Srđ

On our final full day, we chose to take a boat trip to visit three of the 14 Elafiti islands that lie just off the north-west coast of Dubrovnik. The three we visited are the only islands that are permanently inhabited.

Kolocep is the nearest island to Dubrovnik and has a population of 163

with an area of 16 sq. km, Sipan is the largest Elafiti island

Lopud is car-free

Sign at our guest house. We didn't have time to visit Lokrum,
go the beach or go sea kayaking but we did most of the rest!
 
After three days in Dubrovnik, we headed south along the coast to Herceg Novi in Montenegro.

Dubrovnik seen when heading to Montenegro

We stayed in the hotel where my conference was taking place, located at Kumbor on the Bay of Kotor.

looking north from the hotel

sunset, Bay of Kotor

It was rather surprising to open your room curtains and realise a massive cruise ship was silently sailing past. They arrived in the morning and left at day's end.

cruise ship, Bay of Kotor

The next day we went on a boat trip to one of Montenegro's most famous sites, Perast and Our Lady of the Rock.

on our way to Perast ...

... being chased by a cruise ship

typical Montenegrin scenery 

St George's Island, which houses a monastery and can't be visited

Our Lady of the Rock is actually an artificial islet created by locals adding rocks after finding an icon of the Madonna on the original rock in the sea in 1452. It houses a church built in 1630 which has a small museum whose most famous exhibit is a tapestry of the Madonna partly made embroidered the hair of its maker (we weren't allowed to photograph it).

Our Lady of the Rock

the church on Our Lady of the Rock

close-up of the church on Our Lady of the Rock

inside our Lady of the Rock church 

inside our Lady of the Rock church 

Just across the water lies the attractive small town of Perast.

Perast

Perast from the water

I'll leave you with this (great) video from the conference, which has some great drone footage of the Bay of Kotor, and starts with a shot of Our Lady of the Rocks (you can see St George's Island just behind, and Perast to the left).

 

After four lovely days in Montenegro, it was time to head to Brighton for the third and final conference of my 2022 European tour!

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Sunday, 3 January 2021

Domaine de la Roseraye, Ste-Rose

Domaine de la Roseraye is a small former sugar factory in Sainte-Rose, on Reunion's south-east coast. We were some of the first people to visit it as part of a new series of guided tours organised by Les Aventuriers de l'Est in partnership with the site's owners, the Adam De Villiers family.


The site has belonged the Adam De Villiers family since the turn of the last century, but the former sugar factory ruins left there predate them and are probably mid-nineteenth century. 


The remains include an (incomplete) boiler, a broken flywheel, and a small sugar cane mill. They are interesting because Domaine de la Roseraye is one of the few, if not the only, factory sites on Reunion that has been left virtually as it was. Its small size is typical of properties of the time, and it's a piece in the jigsaw puzzle of the island's sugar cane industry development.


Incidentally until the late 19th century the only way to reach Ste-Rose from the north and east was by sea. The bridge over the Rivière de l'Est - the world's longest at the time - was only built in 1894.





The family had some archaeological work carried out between 2015 and 2018 but frustratingly French regulations mean that if there is no active archaeological research being carried out the site has to be recovered in order to preserve what's underneath. Prior to 2015 it was a guest house, with rooms in the converted stables. The actual house is quite unprepossessing and was apparently never lived in full-time. Located in such a backwater it didn't need the bling-bling of houses such as those on St-Denis' Rue de Paris for example.

house at Domaine de la Roseraye

verandah of the house at Domaine de la Roseraye

Whoever planted the garden must have loved Heliconias, as I've rarely seen so many different varieties in one place!




Heliconia rostrata




Heliconia chartacea

There were also plenty of other plants and trees in the garden. As Ste-Rose is located on Reunion's windward coast it gets lots of rain, which means gardens in the area are extremely lush.

starfruit flowers

Lipstick palm (Cyrtostachys renda)





Incidentally a TV journalist was there at the same time as us, and her news segment can be seen here:

Domaine de la Roseraye guided visits take place on the 1st Sunday of every month and you should contact Les Aventuriers de l'Est at aventuriersdelest@gmail.fr or 0692 34 45 21 to book. Visits for 15 or more people can be organised on other dates.

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