Smart Travels: Andaman Islands

Saturday 31 March 2018

Andaman Islands

After spending a week in southern India we flew 1,000 km east from Chennai to the Andaman Islands. This archipelago in the Bay of Bengal is actually closer to Thailand and Burma/Myanmar than India, but nevertheless belongs to the latter. There are roughly 300 islands but indigenous Andaman Islanders inhabit some of the more remote ones, and so many are off limits to visitors. After arriving at Port Blair (the islands' capital) we then took a two-hour ferry ride north-east to Havelock Island, where we spent the first four nights. Our main interest was diving, so we dived in the mornings and explored or relaxed in the afternoon.

off Radhanagar Beach, Havelock

Located on the north-west of Havelock, Radhanagar is an attractive beach and a good place to swim and watch the sunset, but at dusk everyone has to get out of the sea because of the risk of a saltwater crocodile attack at that time of day!

at Havelock

We walked through forest to Elephant Beach, which used to be famous for Rajan, its swimming elephant. (Rajan died in 2016, aged sixty-six).

Rajan, the swimming elephant (source)

trekking through the forest to Elephant Beach, Havelock

lizard in the forest on the way to Elephant Beach

We then took another, shorter, ferry ride to neighbouring Neil Island, which is smaller than Havelock. We were also able to fit in some diving there, despite having been told it wouldn't be possible on the island.

Beach at Neil Island

Neil Island

Neil Island's beaches are numbered one to five, and the Natural Arch in the photos below, at Beach 2, is only accessible at low tide.

Natural Arch, Neil Island

sunset, Neil Island

After one night on Neil Island we then headed back to Port Blair, for our final night and some visiting. It's not a particularly attractive town, but there are a few things to see and visit. We started with the Cellular Jail, a former British prison that is now a shrine to the political dissidents it once gaoled. It was built 1896-1906 and used to have seven wings, containing 698 cells, which radiated from a central tower (some wings were later destroyed by the Japanese during WWII).

at Cellular Jail

Next we visited Chatham Saw Mill, set up by the British in 1836 and still operational. It provides an interesting insight into the island's history and economy, but would give any western Health & Safety authorities a heart attack. Visitors are free to wander everywhere, inches away from saws cutting through timber, no closed shoes or hardhats are required, workers are both barefoot and gloveless, and there are plenty of female workers and visitors in saris with long plaits of hair and flowing scarves!