Friday, 9 September 2011

Want to make a difference? Try voluntourism!

VolunTourism Defined: 
"The conscious, seamlessly integrated combination of voluntary service to a destination and the best, traditional elements of travel — arts, culture, geography, history and recreation — in that destination". 
From www.voluntourism.org 

Have you ever wanted to "give something back" while travelling? Feel like immersing yourself in another culture while bringing about some positive change in the world? A phenomenon not just limited to kibbutz workers or gap year students, people of all ages and abilities can participate in what can be a life-changing and highly rewarding experience – volunteering while on holiday. Whether you have just a few days or several months to spare somebody somewhere could benefit from your time, your skills, your energy and enthusiasm. 

Maybe you've been moved by the plight of beggars or homeless children during a previous city break. Perhaps you've been inspired while trekking, diving, snorkelling or even just visiting a zoo and would like to help with environmental issues. You might have been touched when seeing a natural disaster unfold on the television. Opportunities abound in domains as varied as healthcare and community development, conservation (land or sea), and teaching or sports coaching, to name just a few. A quick internet search brings up many organisations. Some are free, others ask for donations, and some operate as profitable businesses. They may be faith-based or government supported, and may target seniors or teens. Some place the accent more on the holiday facet, while others will emphasis the volunteering aspect. Some of the best projects will be those where you are simply donating your time and labour and not using your professional skills. 

The choice of place and activity will depend on a number of factors. The amount of time you have available (not much time? – choose a destination close to home); your preference of location (already speak Spanish, want to learn Spanish? why not choose South America); and whether you prefer a foreign-run organisation or a local one (a local organisation might be cheaper, but could be less reliable). Check testimonials from previous volunteers, and/or post a query in a forum to see what people are saying about their experiences. The most expensive options are often the for-profit companies who act as an intermediary and will place you with the non-profit organisation for which you will be volunteering; they will assess your skills, provide orientation briefings and arrange local accommodation. A cheaper option is to do your own research and pick a charity yourself, but smaller scale ones may not have the manpower or the time to help you organise your vacation. An online resource centre like www.idealist.org can help you make informed decisions about volunteering in another country. 

If this all sounds like too much hard work you can always fall back on responsible travel, which supports cultural and environmental protection, equitable benefit sharing, and the alleviation of poverty. You can make a difference while travelling by simply choosing responsible suppliers (hotels, restaurants, cultural activities etc.) who have developed services and products while keeping in mind the conservation of heritage and the empowerment of local communities and disadvantaged groups. A good place to start in the South East Asian region is www.mekongresponsibletourism.org

Coming back to voluntourism, how can you justify volunteering in another country when there are so many needs in our own local communities? Taking a break from our normal lives; a need for adventure or a change of scene; cultural curiosity; sharing one's faith or supporting a cause you believe in; and being a cultural ambassador are just some of the many reasons for which people participate in volunteer tourism. You will also learn about local problems from the inside, rather than via the media. But isn't it just a 'guilt trip'? Can such a short stay really help, really make a difference? Maybe yes, maybe not. But you'll probably get even more out of your stay than the locals, and it will likely inspire you to do more volunteering, at home or abroad. 

You may also worry that volunteering abroad can be seen as a modern-day form of colonialism, but think of your time abroad as a partnership and the chance to learn from another community rather than the occasion to impose 'superior' developed world strategies and resources. Be open-minded to other cultures, and realistic about what you can achieve in such a short period of time. And finally, remember – you have as much to learn as you do to give. 

A few useful links:
Hands up holidays (travel company)
Voluntourism Gal - blog on the voluntourism industry
Wikipedia definition
and many more...

For a list of useful books click here.

Tree-planting in Korea

If you live in Korea and want to travel in the country and volunteer try WWOOF. World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms is an exchange volunteer system where participants can homestay in exchange for helping the host. Possible all year round, a programme typically lasts 1-2 weeks, but can extend up to several months. WWOOF Korea has been a chapter of the global organisation since 1996. Daily chores may include harvesting produce, weeding and seeding, milking, cleaning animal pens, and digging trenches! http://koreawwoof.com 

making kimchi for charity

This article was originally published in the October-November 2011 issue of SIWA's Discovery magazine (pages 13-14).

Monday, 8 August 2011

Travel Tip - Mekong basin area

If you're planning a trip to one of the countries in the Mekong basin area (Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar or the Chinese provinces of Yunnan or Guangxi), or even if you live in the area, here's an interesting link: Responsible Tourism in the Mekong.

The site features responsible tourism operations and operators, and has been developed to complement existing travel guides to the Mekong Region. Designed with the intention of providing mainly independent travellers with a choice of responsible operators who will cater for all their needs: accommodation, activities, sites to visit, restaurants, shops, museums and wellness services, it can also help you find responsible tour operators if you prefer an organised trip.

P.S. Check out the logo!

Thursday, 4 August 2011

A clumsy chronicle


The Last Colony: An Experience of Reunion Island is one of several e-books written by Michael Steane, and recounts his time spent on Reunion Island (a French overseas department in the Indian Ocean) during the early nineties. It seems to have been written in 1997 in Australia where the author went to live after leaving Reunion, but appears to have only been published (as an e-book) in 2010.

cover of The Last Colony: An Experience of Reunion Island

Chapters are short, manageable, and are broadly thematic, and the narrative is not too linear. The author is at his best when describing Reunion's beautiful landscape, scenery and outdoor attractions. However that is where most of the positive points of the book end.

It is littered with punctuation errors and spelling mistakes in English and in French (eg 'messayge') that a simple re-reading and/or use of a spell checker would have eliminated, and I found this distracting.

There are also numerous factual mistakes (calling the French electricity company EDS for example, instead of EDF; confusing the given names of Verges father and son; saying that Tromelin is one of the Mascarene islands instead of Rodrigues); the wrong use of French terms (eg 'octroi mer' instead of 'octroi de mer'; saying that a 'casier judiciaire' (criminal record) is needed when what is actually needed is an 'extrait de casier judiciaire' (proof of no criminal record) !); and debatable generalisations (eg 'St Denis is a largely Muslim town' or 'it is fairly commonplace for [university] lecturers to have sexual relations with their students'). There are also some repetitions (e.g. the visit of his mother to the island).

All in all this is one of the first books I've read where I felt I should be awarded points for effort (for reading the book) rather than the author !

The author is well-meaning and his appreciation of the island is apparent, (although not immediately), but better fact-checking (a lack of which is inexcusable for any self-respecting self-publisher in the internet age), along with fewer generalisations and less repetition of clichéd opinions would have helped his case (and the island's reputation amongst those non-speakers of French who don't know Reunion).

P.S. I have not listed all the mistakes and errors in the book as there are far too many for a simple review, I've simply highlighted a few to illustrate my points.


Further reading:

A review from the blog "Around the world in 80 books!!!".

Monday, 1 August 2011

48 hours in Amsterdam


Amsterdam's canal ring is inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List

Well, actually only 36 hours as we arrived from Indonesia on Saturday morning and left on Sunday evening, but never mind! 

As we were only staying one night we booked a night at the Citizen M  hotel next to the airport which markets itself as "affordable luxury". The room was quite small but well designed and included a Philips' mood pad. After we'd stayed there I saw it had been voted Trip Advisor's Trendiest Hotel in the World 2011 !

shower, Citizen M hotel, Amsterdam

The day we arrived we were rather tired and the weather was not good - rainy and cold - only 12°C although this was late July. It was very quick and easy to take a train into the city centre from the airport.

main train station, Amsterdam


canals
 Because of the weather we decided to visit something indoors. There were big long queues outside Anne Frank's house, so we chose the Royal Palace Museum. I found it unusual because unlike other countries where royal palaces have been transformed into civic buildings, this building started off as the City Hall 350 years ago before being turned into a royal palace by King Louis Napoleon in 1806.

magnificent central hall




The next day we visited the Rijksmuseum - no photos allowed unfortunately. (Rijksmuseum is the general Dutch name for a state/national museum; used by itself it refers to the main arts museum in Amsterdam). It is currently being renovated until 2013 but it is still possible to visit part of the collection. One of  its most famous paintings, which we were able to see, is Johannes Vermeer's The Milkmaid:

© Rijksmuseum


Afterwards we visited the Rembrandt Museum, which is actually his former house:



Rembrandt was a famous 17th century painter and etcher. 

Rembrandt

Although I like his work one of my favourite etchings in the museum was not actually by him, but by a contemporary named Jan Saenredam:

Sine Cerere et Baccho friget Venus
(Without Food and Wine Love will Freeze)



Suggested reading:

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier. Historical fiction about Vermeer's household.




For more of my posts in the "48 hours in..." series click here.

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

Pulau Weh - scuba-diving off Sumatra's north-west tip


The second part of our trip to Indonesia involved a week's scuba-diving at Pulau Weh, a small island off the north west tip of Sumatra.

To get there from our previous destination, Yogyakarta, we had to fly to Banda Aceh via Jakarta. Flight and ferry timetables meant we had to spend a night in Banda Aceh before taking the next day's ferry for a two-hour trip to Pulau Weh. Most people know the name of Banda Aceh as it is the city closest to the epicentre of the 2004 tsunami, although you'd be hard put to know it now as much has been reconstructed. 31000 people died on that day.

Banda Aceh, February 2005

A lot of NGOs came to the city in the aftermath, and from a tourist point of view this had the negative effect of driving accommodation prices up artificially - room prices in BA do not reflect quality at all unfortunately!

Ferry from Banda Aceh to Sabang, capital of Banda Aceh

Map of Pulau Weh, showing dive sites

The ferry arrives at Balohan. Our dive club was situated at Gapang.

our dive club

It's a very quiet and idyllic location. We stayed in accommodation belonging to the dive centre, but there is other accommodation too. We had a choice of rustic eating places for our various meals:

breakfast

lunch

another lunch option

tuna sandwich - made with fresh tuna!

our favourite dinner restaurant

freshly caught dinner!

Gapang Bay

looking to the island from out in a dive boat

One of our dives was on a tugboat wreck in Sabang harbour:

tugboat wreck

On the way back we stopped at some hot springs bubbling up from the sea floor in Pria Lot Bay:

another reminder of local volcanic activity
Here's some of the aquatic life that we saw on other dives (note that all photos with a date encrusted on them were taken by Rob Taylor (thanks Rob!)).

moray eel with attendant cleaner shrimp
not sure whether this is a green or hawksbill turtle

sea anemone

group of garden eels

clown fish in sea-anemone

This sea star looks striking but is actually quite harmful to the coral reefs - it's a crown of thorns, the second largest sea star in the world:

this type of sea star destroys the coral reef

On our last day we couldn't dive as it was a Friday and to respect local Muslim custom no boats go out diving or fishing. So we hired a scooter and visited some of the rest of the island.

vegetation, island interior

monitor lizard

Not far from Gapang is Indonesia's northernmost point, which is marked by a commemorative monument.

Indonesia's Point Zero

It's guarded by a group of aggressive monkeys, who are not above stealing anything they can get their hands on.

a few of the thieving monkeys

Thankfully we also met some nice locals!

visitors from Banda Aceh

Suggested reading:

A Diver's Guide to Reef Life by Andrea and Antonella Ferrari. A photographic field guide describing 1200 species of fish and other aquatic life that live on and around the world's coral reefs.

Suggested listening:

Here's an excerpt about Aceh on the BBC's From Our Own Correspondent October 25th 2011 programme.

Wednesday, 20 July 2011

Yogyakarta - Java's cultural capital

An hour's flight from Jakarta is Yogyakarta, Indonesia's cultural capital, often referred to as Yogya, where we had planned to stay 4 nights.

In Yogyakarta itself we started by visiting the Kraton, which is the local Sultan's palace complex, situated in the centre of Yogyakarta. Every morning there is a different performance of typical Javanese culture, and on the day we visited it was music:


Most of the performers were quite elderly.


After watching for a while we wandered around the palace complex.

in the Kraton

The current sultan still lives in the complex.

in the Kraton
ceiling, Kraton

It was in the toilets of the Kraton that I saw this amusing sign.

Afterwards we visited the nearby Taman Sari, which the Dutch called Waterkasteel. A 18th century former royal garden, today only the central bathing complex remains. 

Taman Sari

Taman Sari

Taman Sari

The next day we headed to Borobudur which is about 40km north-west from Yogya. As we didn't fancy taking public transport we used "Rumah Guides", which is a community project organisation.

En route to Borobudur we stopped off in the village of Ngilpoh, which is locally famous for its ceramics. 


As they don't have a kiln to fire their ceramics, they use a method whereby the items to be fired are covered in dry grass which is then set alight. A man creates a draft using a hand-held device so that as many objects as possible are covered by the ashes:

Ngilpoh 'kiln'

It seemed to resemble pit-firing, but without a pit!

After lunch we headed to the day's main attraction: Borobudur.

approaching Borobudur

This 8th or 9th century Buddhist structure is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

stone carvings
stone carvings
Borobudur is surrounded by lush countryside

Unfortunately nobody knows who built it or why it was built.

gargoyle for water drainage

Built as a single large stupa, it has nine platforms. the lower six are square, and the upper three are circular. The upper platform contains 72 small pierced stupas surrounding a central large stupa.

Some of the 72 stupas on the upper platform

central stupa in the middle


panoramic view

Inside each pierced stupa is a statue of Buddha.

this stupa has been left uncovered to allow visitors to see the Buddha inside

It is the single largest Buddhist structure in the world.


Three kilometres east of Borobudur is the square-shaped Mendut Temple:


Inside are three statues, a three metre high Buddha flanked by bodhisattvas.

central Buddha statue 

Our last day started by a visit to Kaliurang, 25 km north of Yogya and situated at over 900m altitude. It is on the southern slopes of the volcano Gunung (Mount) Merapi, which last erupted in November 2010, ie about 7 months before our visit there, leaving a trail of devastation in its wake. Unfortunately cloudy weather prevented us from seeing "Fire Mountain".

sign reads "Mount Merapi National Park"

Some houses were destroyed in the last eruption, and some of these have been charmingly "graffitied".



On the way to our next stop we saw a warung (restaurant) advertising rabbit satay!


Our final stop was at the Prambanan temple complex. 


Also a UNESCO heritage site it is splendid in its own right but is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Borobudur. Probably built about 50 years later these temples are dedicated to Hinduism however, not Buddhism.

statue of Nandi, mount of the god Shiva

statue of Brahma

bas relief

main shrine, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva




Candi Sewu, literally the "thousand temples"

As we visited it late afternoon to beat the heat it was quite atmospheric with the light going when we left.


When we left Yogyakarta we had this view from the plane:

Mount Merapi?


Suggested reading: