Saturday, 29 September 2012

Whale-watching

I couldn't resist posting this photo of a humpback whale we saw today off Reunion's west coast. We saw a mother and youngster, and this is the mother's fluke.


Between June and October, Humpback whales come to Reunion's waters from the far south to give birth and raise their young.

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Friday, 21 September 2012

Domaine de la Réserve & Ste Suzanne lighthouse

Last weekend was the European Heritage Days, and on the Saturday we decided to visit two local sites: the Domaine de la Réserve in Sainte Marie and the lighthouse at Sainte Suzanne.

The Domaine de la Réserve is a former sugar cane estate comprising a main house and various dependencies dating from the late 18th century. It's not normally open to the public and this year was the first time it could be visited as part of the European Heritage Days.

Main house, Domaine de la Réserve

The main house is unusual for Reunion because there's no verandah on the principal facade.

side view, main house

Near the house is a cobbled courtyard around which are the former stables.

looking into the cobbled courtyard; stables at the back

old plough

My husband and I were particularly interested to see the old chimney. We have a solar electricity project and at one point it was jeopardised by our house's proximity to the chimney, as it classed as a Monument historique, ie a French National Heritage Site. In the end - fortunately for us - it was not a problem.


the famous chimney which nearly put an end to
 our solar electricity project!

old petrol pump

The surrounding grounds are quite extensive and one of the features you notice is a large cast iron basin, which comes from Bellemene, Saint Paul, on the island's west coast.

old cast iron basin

impressive thorns on the trunk of this palm

large Stag Horn Fern

The estate is still surrounded by extensive fields of sugar cane.


sugar-cane cutting season is from June to December

Next we headed a few miles down the road to the neighbouring municipality of Ste Suzanne to climb the lighthouse.

the cylindrical tower of Sainte Suzanne lighthouse

Built in 1845 it started functioning on 15th October 1846, and is the only remaining lighthouse on Reunion (another lighthouse located at Pointe des Galets disappeared in the 1970s due to erosion). It has been classed a Monument Historique since June 2012.

there are 88 steps up to the top of the lighthouse

The lighthouse is built 40 metres above sea level, and is 20.25 metres high. It was staffed until 1985, with keepers winding the clockwork mechanism every 4 hours. It  was automated in 1989  and fully restored in 1996.

lens in the lantern

It emits three white flashes every 15 seconds which are visible for 23 nautical miles.

looking north from the gallery

looking south; Bois Rouge sugar factory is visible to the upper left

picnic area at the foot of the lighthouse

old lens 

anchor in the gardens outside the lighthouse

The lighthouse visit certainly brought back memories - I think the last lighthouse I climbed was at Dondra Head, the southern point of Sri Lanka, three years ago.


Notes:

Coordinates of La Réserve: 20°54′00″ South  55°33′44″ East
Coordinates of Sainte Suzanne lighthouse: 20°54′05″South  55°36′07"East


Friday, 14 September 2012

Morne de St François & Le Brûlé


Le Brûlé is a district of Saint Denis located along a winding hairpin bend road between 600-1000m altitude. My husband grew up in Le Brûlé, about 1km lower than the main village, so it's an area I know well, although since my parents-in-law moved in 2001 I've rarely had reason to go back there. During the 19th and early 20th century the wealthy favoured le Brûlé for holiday homes due to its cool climate. Slightly higher up is a starting point for the hike up to the Roche Ecrite (2276m), Reunion's 7th highest mountain, but this was not our goal today.

Le Brûlé church (source)

We started walking from the village church (834m) up the road and path, until after 2km we arrived in the forest. From there we headed east about four more kilometres until we reached a viewpoint known as the Morne de St François (about  930m altitude), from where we had great views of the north and north-east of Reunion

Morne de Saint François signpost

At this point technically we were no longer in Le Brûlé, but in another district of Saint Denis called St François.

looking north-east across Ste Marie to Ste Suzanne

Ste Clotilde, a suburb of St Denis 

Saint Denis centre

Looking straight east we could see Pic Adam (1124m), which is an easily-recognisable crater found in the hills above Bois de Nefles, a neighbouring district of Saint Denis. (It takes its name from the grandson of Admiral Bouvet, a former governor of the Mascarene Islands, who was ruined after setting up an optical telegraph with Mauritius).

Pic Adam crater

We were surrounded by beautiful vegetation - wild camellias and azaleas grow particularly well at this altitude.

Azalea

Azaleas

wild orchid

On leaving the Morne we had to retrace our footsteps for about 700m until we joined a path that allowed us to head up to Mamode Camp, an area above Le Brulé where we had a picnic lunch.



After lunch we headed along another path known as the PreVallée, the highest point of our hike at about 1200 m altitude.

part of the Prevallée path crosses muddy ground

Tibouchina urvilleana / Princess Plant 

We didn't go to see the Cascade Maniquet waterfall because as we're at the end of the dry season there's no water to be seen there.


Afterwards we just needed to head down hill back to the church where we'd left our cars.

Map

All in all it took us about 7 hours to cover an 18km-loop at a leisurely pace (about 4km/h on average), including our stop for lunch.

Monday, 20 August 2012

Garden flowers & fruit



I've very briefly mentioned in passing our prolific bananas in a previous post, but the annual flowering of the beautiful Cup of Gold Vine, one of my favourite plants (which has just happened within the past few days) encouraged me to share a few photos of our garden. Underneath each photo I've put: Latin name / English name / French or Reunion Creole name.


The Cup of Gold vine is also known as Golden Chalice Vine or Hawaiian Lily, but in Reunion it's called "Fleur coco" because of the coconut smell of the flowers.

Solandra maxima / Cup of Gold Vine / Fleur coco

The plant below doesn't look much but Night-blooming jasmine smells divine in the evening:
Cestrum Nocturnum / Night-blooming jasmine / Jasmin de nuit

The frangipani is another one of my sweet-smelling favourites, although you don't have to wait for nightfall to appreciate it. Different varieties exist but as you can see ours has large white flowers with a small yellow centre. When the flowers fall I sometimes float them in a bowl of a water.

Plumeria / Frangipani / Frangipanier

The Traveller's palm is originally from Madagascar and is not a true palm, but a member of the bird-of-paradise family. The name supposedly comes from the fact that the sheaths of the stems hold rainwater, which theoretically could be used as an emergency water supply for thirsty travellers.

Strelitziaceae / Traveller's palm / Arbre du voyageur ou Ravenala

It's easy to see where the Chinese hat plant gets its name from:

Holmskioldia sanguinea / Chinese hat plant / Chapeau chinois

The Allamanda is also known as Yellow Bell, Golden Trumpet or Buttercup Flower. We have two different varieties in our garden - one with large flowers (see bottom left and right), and one with small flowers (see middle and top left of photo):

Allamanda / Buttercup Flower / Coupe d'Or or Trompette d'Or

The Jungle Geranium is also known as Flame of the Woods (I prefer the latter name). Its latin name, Ixora, derives from that of an Indian deity, from where it originates.

Ixora coccinea / Flame of the Woods / Ixora

Like the traveller's palm, the golden cane palm, areca palm, or butterfly palm is another plant originating from Madagascar.

Dypsis lutescens / Butterfly Palm / Multipliant

We've planted our own mango tree (see first picture below) but it's still young and to be honest the one in our neighbour's garden hanging over the back wall gives us more fruit! In Reunion the fruit are ripe in summer between November and April, depending on the variety. The main cultivars found in Reunion are Carotte, José, Lucie, Auguste, Maison Rouge and Earlygold.

Mangifera indica / Mango / Mangue

neighbour's mango tree

We grew our avocado tree from a pit and it's still quite young. Last year there were lots of flowers but no fruit. This year at the time of writing there are lots of flowers once again - maybe this time we'll have some avocados? (By the way the French word for avocado - avocat - is the French word for a lawyer. I've seen some very funny menu and recipe automatic machine translations on the internet along the lines of "add 100g of chopped lawyer"!).

Persea americana / Avocado / Avocat

Our red hibiscus doesn't flower very often, but when it does I think the flowers are magnificent.

Hibiscus / Hibiscus / Hibiscus

The nastus bamboo is known locally as calumet, and my husband particularly appreciates it as he grew up in a house called "Les Calumets" where there were many in the garden.

Nastus borbonicus / Nastus bamboo / Calumet

Another one of my fragrant favourites, the strong-smelling ylang-ylang is used in perfumery and is grown widely in the Comoros Islands and Mayotte also known as the Perfumed Islands for this reason. The flower is pale yellow and can be seen in the middle of this picture:

Cananga odorata / Ylang-ylang / Ylang-ylang 

This Copperleaf was planted by one of our tenants when we rented our house out for three years while we were in S. Korea.



Acalypha / Copperleaf / Foulard

Bougainvillea are an attractive flowering plant, but beware their thorns!

Bougainvillea / Bougainvillea / Bougainvillier or Bougainvillée

This papaya has been chopped down since I took the photo - neither my husband or I are big fans of papaya and the tree was starting to get in the way. We didn't even plant it - it probably grew from seeds dropped by a bird. Although it looks like a tree it's actually just a big plant - it grows several metres high very quickly and the trunk is hollow.

Carica papaya / Papaya or Pawpaw / Papaye

I think these Amaryllis were planted by our tenants when we lived in South Korea. We just leave them alone and they flower every year.

Amaryllis

Finally I thought I'd take you through the various stages of growth of bananas. Here are baby banana plants:


Like papaya, bananas are plants and not trees. They grow to be several metres tall: 


Each plant produces one banana heart:

reddish-purple banana heart

Over a period of several months the bananas develop from this heart:


In the picture below the fruit have all developed, but still have several weeks or even a couple of months before they're ripe. In Reunion the heart, known locally as a baba figue, is sometimes cut and used to make a carri (savoury Creole dish).


We normally cut a stalk when one of the bananas has just turned yellow, or is on the point of doing so. If we don't, the birds will get to them first! (Note that the fruit grow upwards, and not downwards as some supermarkets would have you believe).

freshly-cut stalk

Once the stalk of fruit has been cut the plant dies and we cut it down, however offshoots often develop from the base of the plant and the whole process starts all over again!

ripening stalk 

Believe it or not all the banana photos above were taken on the same day; we always seem to have several stalks on the go in various stages of ripeness. Sometimes we have so many bananas I feel I should be selling them by the side of the road, like this lady I saw in Sri Lanka.

I hope you enjoyed this visit to my garden!



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